When the word went out that Connie Brown was looking to sell her beloved Brown Cow Ice Cream shop and creamery at 7347 Madison St. in Forest Park, two Oak Park couples with deep ties to the local restaurant industry stepped up.
Nick Stewart and Gustavo de Fraga met in the kitchen at Marion Street Cheese Market (that spot is now Victory Italian). The two became best friends. Fast forward, Stewart helped to open One Lake Brewing as their chef. Then he met, fell in love with and married Sarah Stewart who, among her other restaurant management experiences, helped open Candycopia.
All along, it’s been a love affair with local food.
“I don’t think I realized how much ice cream affected my life until this went for sale,” Sarah Stewart said. “We have pictures of my daughter and I sitting in here with our winter coats and hats on eating ice cream.”
Gustavo and his wife, Andrea de Fraga, brought their boys in for birthday parties and celebrations too. Andrea adds to the new-owner-sundae with her career running and consulting on financial systems for businesses large and small.
“Since the moment I met them, I could see that they have the skills, the experience, the expertise, the hearts and great ideas to take the brand to new heights,” said the now former owner, Connie Brown.
“Connie has done amazing things for the community and has established a great footprint,” Sarah Stewart said.
“We bought the ice cream shop because we didn’t want to see it go,” de Fraga said.
Brown is helping the new owners find their footing.
“We’re going to maintain the existing flavors,” de Fraga said. “Eventually we will introduce others. I have some ideas, not just for the little kids, maybe more for more grownup people.”
Unlike many local frozen treat shops, Brown Cow is open all year because it makes ice cream in the onsite creamery. In the back, they churn out batches that also feed a wholesale business servicing local and regional buyers.
While they are first concentrating on keeping the quality high, the couples do have dreams. Perhaps a few “Brown Calves” in the future, de Fraga said.
“Right now, as far as training, we are in the staff’s hands,” Stewart said. “If they weren’t here this wouldn’t be possible. They are the glue in the transition from Connie to us and hopefully they will come along with us for the long journey.”
As for Connie Brown, she is happy to be, “a customer and their biggest taste tester. I’m looking forward to watching them shine. It’s going to be really fun to watch it all happen. And I hope that all of my customers over the last 22 years, come in and experience their Brown Cow because it’s going to be spectacular.”
Customers, like Mark Brucatos, didn’t notice any difference when he came in to redeem a gift card with his sons and their friend. (Gift cards and coupons will be honored by the new owners.) He was surprised to learn that the waffle cone baton had been handed over. “This place is a local institution. It’s great to see it carrying on, especially because it’s been such a pillar of the community.”
Editor’s note: Risé Sanders-Weir, our Eats reporter, is a personal friend of Brown Cow Ice Cream’s new owners but has no financial stake in their venture.